DIY frames

Construction of a frame

The realization of a frame is strongly linked to the type of image that it will contain. The framing of a painting or of a print must be preceded by a careful evaluation of some elements, in order to get the best result.

You can frame an oil painting but also a watercolor one, a drawing or a photograph.
It can be brightly colored or light colors, it can be very small or large.

Each of these factors affect the choice of the type of framing to achieve.
For example: a tiny little picture needs a large passe-partout to distance it from the frame, to be appraised. A large photograph can also be framed with a thin colored frame that does not interfere with the image.

Frame styles

Within some limits one must grant the style of the painting with the type of frame. For example: a Renaissance picture of course should not be framed with a frame of brushed steel, while a gold frame in baroque style does not fit with an abstract image.

The frame, however, must also be made according to the furniture and the furnishing in the room in which the picture will be placed. In most instances, to identify a compromise between the demands of the image and those of the furniture.

The classic frame: the rods and the glass

It can be purchased at specialty stores, bars length of 2 meters. There are very different types to suit any need. You must purchase a length such that it contains the entire perimeter of the picture, making sure that the four pieces can be cut in one piece: better bigger than smaller.

We address the general case of a classical frame made with all the necessary elements. The work begins with the selection and purchase of the frames in the appropriate types and models.

The protective glass is almost always necessary but it may be useless or even counter-productive in spaces where there are many lamps or in cases where it can create strong reflections. A pastel painting must be distanced from the glass because the condensation produce can glue it on it. It is not possible to evaluate all the situations case by case: take some advice from the retailer of fine arts or colors and paint where you purchase the material for framing.

Cut and paste the rods

Measure the lengths of the sides of the picture and add 2 mm to each dimension. So proceed to a 45° cut of the 4 elements that form the frame. Before cutting make sure that the picture is of regular shape (by measuring and comparing the two diagonals) if they are different you need to measure each side individually and write down the measurements.

Make the cut using the tape for angled cuts: the blade of the saw should be passed exactly on the sign that you have practiced on the frame: the 2 mm in excess that you left just need to compensate the thickness removed by the blade.

If you have a angle miter the work will be even faster and certainly more accurate.

With fine sandpaper remove small barbs of wood that come from the cutting, then place the 4 pieces on the floor and check that the approach is accurate and the form obtained is regular.

The bonding of the rods is carried out with vinyl glue that you apply on the cut heads at 45°. Arrange the frame pieces on the floor and match them to form a regular figure, then lock the frame with the cable clamps to maintain the angular position in the frame for the time necessary to the outlet of the glue.

If the frame is very large, you can use the special belt clamp that keeps the right angle the frame while you exercise great pressure.

For added security you can place on the frame, while it is still flat, some woods horizontally to place some weights over. This will ensure the absolute flatness of the frame.

After 24 hours, remove the clamps, then stabilize and strengthen the joints with small nails planted sideways to the joints. The heads of the nails are embedded in the wood with a pin punch. Masked with a little wood pulp applied with a spatula.

Junctions with flaps

If the frame is very large it may be necessary to reinforce the joints in a particular way. Among the various systems, the most practical is to insert the reinforcement flaps. After pasting the joints do not place the tacks but make some cuts on the joints themselves so that they are at 45° compared with the bars.

The cuts must be of a width of at least 2-3 mm. In these thin grooves you can insert flaps of very thin wood (is great the wood for veneering furniture) with PVA glue. The parts of flaps sticking out of the frame should be trimmed with a cutter or with the saw.

Glass cutting

Choose a glass with a thickness of 2-3 mm and make 4 cuts (with the glass cutter wheel) so as to obtain a silhouette of the dimensions of the framework. In the market there are also methacrylate plates (or other synthetic materials) that are anti-reflective and cut with great ease by using a conventional hacksaw.

Final assembly of the DIY frame

At this point you have all the components needed to assembly the frame. Put your frame with the visible part on the floor and place the glass in the inner groove.

Thoroughly clean the face of the glass facing you, with alcohol and a cloth that does not shed hair. Center on the glass the picture by placing it in the groove of the frame. If the framework doesn not fit well the groove, place some thickness sideways.

Fixing the framework with some tacks that you will place along its rear edge, by embedding them in the frame (parallel to the framework). The nails should be placed approximately 7-8 cm from each other: when you beat on them place against a stop to prevent damage to the joints.

The protective cardboard

In the back part the picture must be sealed to be protected from dust. To do this, cut a cardboard with a cutter, in the size of the frame and apply it on the back with adhesive tape or paper with tacks.

The passe-partout

If you feel that the picture needs a passe-partout, you have to cut it before making the frame, as this will be largest than the framework and contain the passe-partout. This can be made from cardboard or variously colored fabric glued on cardboard.

On the cardboard destined to become the passe-partout trace the outline of the framework, and then draw a further rectangle (or square depending on the shape of the framework) outside and away from the first of a few centimeters: this distance will be the width of the passe-partout.

As a general rule it is better that this width is reduced if the picture is large and if the picture is small. Cut the outer edge and the inner one: the latter cut should be inclined at 45° to create a bevel on the passe-partout, whose thickness of which, otherwise, would create a line of shadow on the framework.

Now you can achieve the frame according to the technique described above but by referring to the external dimensions of the passe-partout and not the framework.

The assembly with passe-partout

Place the frame on the floor, put inside the glass and then place the passe-partout on the glass (of course with the visible side facing down). Place the picture in the light left by the passe-partout.

To stop the framework in this position you will have to apply the wooden spacers between it and the frame that will block with headless nails both to the frame and to the frame of the picture.

If the picture is thin (cardboard, paper or tablet) you can stabilize the picture by connecting it to the passe-partout with masking tape applied along the lines of contact.

Then lock the passe-partout to the frame with tacks placed horizontally. Finish work applying a cardboard in the back of the picture.