Coloring furniture components: preparation of substrates and methods of painting

Preliminary analysis of the pieces of furniture

The need and the desire to customize our home often leads us to play with colors. Choose color tones of the walls in the first place, but also the components of furniture, it is a way to redesign domestic spaces. You have to know how to work properly so that these works, seemingly simple and cheap, result to be truly effective and lasting in results.

Let's take no notice of the walls, we will analyze the remaining components of furniture. A preliminary analysis of the surface that we want to color is critical because, with the same materials and tools, the results may be more or less satisfactory.

First we should distinguish between the materials that make up the surface to be painted and if it is a raw support or previously treated or painted.

In principle it is desirable to bring the material to the original condition, that is the previous one the finishing treatments that have gradually become stratified. This in order to avoid some form of incompatibility between the old and the new treatment.

In practice it is recommended for both metallic and woody materials, to sand with sandpaper of suitable grain the thin surface layer, in order to eliminate traces of rust or layers impregnating and coating materials previously stretched. The virgin surface is at this point ready to be treated.

Metal supports

In the case of metal objects - in particular iron and cast iron - located outdoors or in damp indoor environments it is recommended a first anti-rust treatment. The anti rust paints adhere intimately to the surface and form a film, by itself clinging, ideal for the subsequent painting enamel to water or solvent of railings handles or radiators. It is naturally inclined to water enamels since they are less polluting, they are odorless and safe for the air quality, although less durable than solvent.

Wood supports

As regards the wood, in all its forms, such as solid wood, but also plywood, MDF, blockboard or laminated panels, veneered or honeycomb, the surface is rough or at least by its nature coarse; is therefore sufficient to carefully remove the traces of previous treatments to prevent disconnects and lack of homogeneity of the new layer of varnish. It may be helpful, but not necessary, to apply a coat of cementite.

As in the case of metal, outdoor or in humid and aggressive environments we recommend a coat of primer. Similarly to the rust preventer, the penetrating sealers nourish and protect the wood without inhibiting the breathability, and form a coating film suitable to accommodate the layer of the next color.

On the market are available primers or transparent shades similar to the most common woods such as mahogany, walnut, etc. If we want to paint with different colors is recommended again the use of water based enamels lyed in two coats. It is important to check the label of these enamels because often the cheaper ones have very low yields per square meter or less covering power, so it may take several times with the consequent loss of time and money.

Other supports

Undoubtedly the most difficult surfaces to be treated are the pre-finished and smooth ones, in particular painted surfaces, and laminates of various kinds. The doors and the majority of the furniture are in fact made of chipboard or cardboard pressed in so-called honeycomb. It is inexpensive media coated and melamine, often with poor results, with a protective layer.

The laminate, also known as formica, is a synthetic product composed of several layers of fibrous material, normally paper impregnated with thermosetting resins, covered by a sheet of decorative paper and a layer of synthetic resin which gives to the plastic laminate both an aesthetic and a waterproofing effect.

The melamine, used to cover the common and cheap particle board, consists of only one or a few thin paper impregnated with synthetic resin. The colors and finishes are unlimited and can reproduce the natural wood as well as patterns and colors totally different.

On these surfaces the support can not be sanded, as it is improper to proceed directly to the painting. In fact, the laminates are designed to make waterproof and washable surface, so that behaviors are almost waterproof and such as not to allow a perfect adhesion of the paint to the substrate. The result is that, following an impact or a simple contact, the paint applied with a brush or roller, it may jump, or even unstuck as a skin which in fact has not adhered to the support.

To avoid these drawbacks it is necessary to prepare surfaces with a special layer of primer. It is a thin transparent film easy to spread that adheres to all surfaces, even glass, forming a coating, slightly rough to the touch. It is this characteristic to make the surface ready to receive the drafting of any paint, ensuring a deep adherence.

Finally, it may be useful to apply an additional coat of fixative or polyurethane paint, ie a very thin protective film that will cover the enamel underlying preserving and guaranteeing a longer life, however, this treatment leads to a slight yellowing of the surface.

The surfaces thus treated, become easy to clean and serviceable.